The story of Genoa's lost heart. Via Madre di Dio was destroyed to build modern offices. See what remains.

Looking down from the Carignano Bridge (visible from the bus route near Piazza Corvetto/Via XX Settembre), you see a concrete valley of offices and gardens. This was once Via Madre di Dio.
It was one of the most populous, vibrant, and scandalous streets of old Genoa. It was the birthplace of Paganini.
Very little. But knowing it was there adds a layer of melancholy and depth to the shiny modern city you see from the bus. It reminds us that Genoa is a city of layers, some hidden forever.

We are passionate about Italy's underrated cities. This guide helps visitors unlock the secrets of Genoa, navigating its vertical landscape with ease and comfort.
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